Sunday, February 18, 2007

Tsuwano 津和野


Last weekend was another national holiday in Japan. There seems to be at least one long weekend a month here which is great. At 2am after dismissing lots of places to visit because of the cost and knowing it was going to be busy because of the holiday, I came across a small section on Tsuwano.

Tsuwano is a beautiful small town located in Shimane Prefecture about 2 hours north east of Onoda. Despite being very popular with Japanese tourists and a little overpriced, it is a great place with a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Located high up in the mountains, it is surrounded by spectacular views and also has some interesting attractions to visit.

For me the adventure started on the train which unbeknown to me was a special service train complete with Japanese style tatami mat buffet cars. Unfortunately I didnt get a picture, but the sight of low tables and people sitting on the floor in the carriages was quite unique. All along the single track railroad through the mountains there were people out taking pictures of the train.

Once arriving at Tsuwano I checked into my ryokan (Japanese style Inn) located near to the station. The place looked quite old and run down, but my room had character and the owners were lovely and it gave me a chance to use my Japanese.


The best thing about staying in ryokans is the food served in your room.

A beautiful shrine located on the mountainside
Only in Japan...

During my time in Japan both on JET and travelling in 2005 I have experienced several acts of kindness from random people that I have met. I have the most amazing encounters travelling by myself, but none so amazing as my time in Tsuwano...
On Sunday night I bumped into Haku (right) in a snack bar. We got chatting and exchanged numbers over a few beers and karaoke. I had to leave early because my ryokan was closing but in the morning Haku called my mobile and offered to show me around town. As I had nothing planned I took him up on the offer. Within 5 mins he was a the station in his car and drove me to the castle. Next we drove back into town and met his wife (left) at a pottery class. The owners (also friends of Haku and his wife) gave me coffee and invited me and friend back for a free lesson as well as showing me around the workshop and giving me a generous discount on my purchases!
Next I was taken to lunch. Haku and his wife insisted that I was the guest and treated me to fox udon (fox only in name - they dont eat fox here that I am aware of!). After lunch I was taken to a church on the mountainside. I was then shown some beautiful Japanese gardens out of town and a paper factory before coffee back in town. Haku and his wifes kindness and hospitality made my weekend one of the best experiences in Japan. Thank you both - I know you will read this site so I look forward to seeing you again soon.
ありがとうございました
Japanese gardens from inside a traditional old house

Visit to the paper factory

This is why I love Japan. The people are incredibly kind and hospitable and I have made numerous friends here.